Royal Icing Recipes Have Evolved! Which is Best for You?

Alright Besties, at the risk of ruffling some feathers, we’re diving into this topic today! As your Bestie, I always give it to you straight and we’re backed by science on this. We’re delving into how royal icing recipes have evolved over the years. The differences between traditional and modern royal icing recipes and results could not be more apparent, yet “royal icing” commonly still carries the stereotypes of decades ago. If you’ve ever heard people say they think royal icing is gross, flavorless or rock hard, there’s a reason they feel that way. But it’s up to us as cookiers who prioritize flavor and texture in addition to beauty to break that stereotype. Let’s dive in!

a common misconception

Most people have experienced a sub-par cookie, right? I know I’ve experienced plenty over the years. But just like you wouldn’t swear off all chocolate chip cookies if you have a crappy one, the same shouldn’t be done for cookies with royal icing. One of the biggest misconceptions about royal icing is that it’s hard, crunchy and flavorless. But here’s the thing…that stereotype came from somewhere!

The ingredients and method of making royal icing in decades past, and that some still use today, were very simple. Unfortunately, they also created an icing that was flavorless or had an eggy flavor and can have a rock-hard texture. These are the two most common complaints of people who have only ever experienced traditional royal icing. And if that’s been their only experience, who can blame them?! Let’s talk about WHY that misconception exists and what we can do about it, as cookiers.

traditional royal icing

Royal icing has been around for decades, but was traditionally made with egg whites, water and powdered sugar. This created an icing that was great for things like gingerbread houses and was used in early cookie decorating. MANY bakers still use traditional royal icing and if those they bake for love it, then I love that for them. But the vast majority of cookiers today use modern royal icing recipes which have evolved to prioritize flavor and texture in addition to the visual beauty.

When royal icing is made with egg whites or dried egg whites, it lacks the stabilizers, like cornstarch and cream of tartar, that are included in good meringue powders. This leads to icing that dries very hard and can be very brittle, since it lacks flexibility. And since there’s nothing really giving it any flavor, it tends to be flavorless or eggy. This icing also crusts faster and isn’t shelf-stable due to the egg whites. So from a decorating perspective, it can be more challenging to work with. Icing made with egg whites is also much more prone to color bleed and other issues, which can be very frustrating for cookiers.

So when people carry the misconception that royal icing is gross, it’s nearly always because this is the type of icing they’ve experienced. And obviously they assume that all royal icing is the same.

If you are a cookier who prefers traditional royal icing, I encourage you to add additional flavoring if you don’t already, so help improve the flavor.

modern royal icing

Fortunately, royal icing recipes have evolved, which offer better results, better flavor and make it easier for cookiers to work with. Modern royal icing recipes include meringue powder, flavoring, water, powdered sugar and commonly corn syrup. The result is an icing that dries hard so cookies can be bagged or stacked but has a soft bite and delicious flavor.

The vast majority of today’s cookiers use modern royal icing made with meringue powder. This creates icing that is shelf-stable, so is safer to use and handle with no risk of salmonella. Good quality meringue powders include ingredients like cream of tartar, cornstarch and others that gives the icing better structure. This improved structure is what helps avoid issues like color bleed and can help avoid craters in icing. The cornstarch absorbs excess moisture which helps with avoiding color bleed and the cream of tartar strengthens the structure and gives the icing more elasticity.

Royal icing made with meringue powder offers better color saturation, so you’ll use less coloring to achieve the shades you want. You’ll also notice this icing is fluffier, and you’ll notice a significant difference in the weight of your piping bag. Traditional royal icing is much heavier, whereas royal icing made with meringue powder is much lighter. Many great meringue powders also include flavoring, even though most cookiers commonly add their own flavoring in addition, to create any flavor they want.

Overall, royal icing made with meringue powder gives royal icing a balance between strength, flexibility and finish compared to egg whites which lack that stability.

Which meringue powders are the best?

I’ve tested many different meringue powders over the years and have shared my cookie research HERE. You can see how several of the most popular brands have stacked up against each other across several different categories. I personally only use Genie’s Dream or Judee’s meringue powders for the results they give me, including color saturation, finish, texture, flavor and more. More brands have made their appearances in just the last couple years, and I always encourage cookiers to find what works best for them.

The flavor of your icing is dependent on the meringue powder you use and the flavoring(s) you include.

Not all recipes are the same!

Now that we’ve talk about the differences between traditional and modern royal icing and the science behind those differences, let’s talk about recipes. While even modern royal icing has a short list of ingredients, HOW the icing is made makes a world of difference. Even among the cookier community, many don’t realize how different royal icing recipes can be based on how the icing is made.

Different ingredients, amounts and how those ingredients are put together have a dramatic effect on the end result. As someone who has made MANY different royal icing recipes, you’d be amazed at how different they can be. If you tried 5 different recipes, you’d quickly learn they yield different results. And a recipe that works beautifully for one cookier may not be the best one for you, so I do encourage cookiers to try different recipes to witness the differences.

If you want a fabulous recipe or if you’d like to compare to the one you’re currently using, THIS walks through exactly how I make my icing every day. This recipe gives me beautiful results, texture and flavor along with being easy to pipe…no hand cramps here. I will note that royal icing is VERY sensitive to humidity, so if your indoor humidity level is over 50%, try using 1/2 cup of water to create a stiff consistency. I use a full cup of water every time, which does work beautifully for me and thousands of other cookiers. But if there’s one variable that cookier need to adjust, it’s the water, to adapt for their home humidity.

I haven’t experienced color bleed in years, and decorating is so much more fun when you don’t have to worry about icing pitfalls that are common with other recipes.

Royal Icing comparison video

To back up the cookie science we’ve covered here today, I put together this video for you! See exactly what traditional and modern royal icing recipes look like. Obviously, you can’t taste the flavor (wish you could), but this visual is helpful! Click on the image below to see the video!

last thoughts on royal icing recipes

I hope this was helpful and you have learned about the wide range of differences in royal icing! Again, if you use and love traditional royal icing, I love that for you. And for today’s cookiers, I beg of you, PLEASE make sure you’re prioritizing flavor and texture in addition to your beautiful decorating. We’re all working hard to break the stereotype that decorated cookies aren’t absolutely delicious! One incredible cookie at a time, more and more people are learning these cookies can taste even better than they look!

If you need any more help, you can find me and thousands of fellow Besties HERE. It’s the happiest corner of the internet where you’ll find endless help, support, inspiration and celebration of beautiful bakes. And I’d LOVE to see your cookies there too!

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